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1965-1982 Corvette New Delco Brake Caliper with Sleeve Lip Seal - Front Right

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Part #: 606-224
GM Part #: 2621203
2621206
Availability: Out of Stock
Fits Years:
  • 1965-1967
  • 1968-1982
$209.99
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1965-1982 New Delco Brake Caliper with Sleeve Lip Seal - Front Right

This 1965-1982 Front Brake Caliper is manufactured using brand new castings with stainless steel sleeves for a high quality final product. This caliper arrives fully assembled with new lip seal type pistons, springs, seals, dust boots, pads, pins, bleeders and plugs. Each caliper has been pressure-tested for precision fit and function.

Whether you are restoring your Corvette's brake system or upgrading it for track use, this lip seal style brake caliper will eliminate and prevent leaks and put your Corvette safely back out on the open road. Lip style seals were chosen by GM engineers in the original equipment calipers which remained in production for 17 years.

This brand new caliper is an OE style direct replacement that features the DELCO MORAINE stamping and requires no core charge.

  • Fits 1965-1967 C2 Corvettes
  • Fits 1968-1982 C3 Corvettes
  • Fits Front Right Only
  • Features DELCO MORAINE Stamp in Casing
  • Brand New Caliper
  • Designed to Resist Heat up to 600 Degrees
  • Ideal for Frequently Driven Corvettes
  • All Threads Checked, Cleaned, & Chased
  • Brass Washer Included
  • Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • No Core Charge Required

NOTE: Use of DOT 5 brake fluid will VOID all warranty coverage. Changes in chemistry may have adverse effects on rubber brake system components as per EPA rule.



Also known under these part numbers: (For reference only)

  • 193105
  • 193106
  • 2621203
  • 2621206
  • 40292
  • CB-L-GM
  • LS100NRF

Many of our Mid America Motorworks customers ask us about 1965-1982 Corvette Brake Calipers and the differences. This caliper style is referred to as D8 Disc Brake Calipers. We hope this top level view assists you in your decision making for your Corvette Restoration, Daily Driver or Corvette Resto Mod brake project.

Why Choose Stainless-Steel Sleeved Calipers?

In the mid-seventies, the advent of stainless-steel sleeves for the caliper piston bores began. This was a vast improvement over the Factory OE calipers with cast-steel bores, which were rough-cast and prone to rust and corrosion from non-use.  1965-1982 Corvette disc brake calipers are of a floating piston design, where the pistons in the caliper move in and out while the body of the caliper stays stationary.

Most C2-C3 1965-1982 Corvette Calipers today have been converted to stainless-steel sleeves.  These stainless-steel sleeved calipers are the ultimate, stock style brakes for your 1965-1982 Corvette and that’s why Mid America Motorworks features them.

Which Style Of Caliper Is Best For My Corvette Driving Style?

If your Corvette is driven regularly or if you want to keep it as original as possible, then lip seal calipers will be your choice.

If your Corvette experiences long periods of inactivity or is stored most of the time, then o-ring calipers will be a good investment and better protection against fluid leaks and problems.

Read on to learn the differences in these calipers and why they are used for different driving styles.

1965-1982 Corvette Lip Seal Calipers

All 1965-1982 Corvettes originally used a lip seal on the caliper piston, which was designed to work as follows: when pressure is applied to the brake pedal, pressure is applied to the back edge of the seal, causing it to seal tighter as more pressure is applied.   If your Corvette is driven at least once per week, then the lip seal calipers will serve you well.  Regular use will insure that the seals stay in contact with the bores to both prevent leaks and to prevent contaminants from entering the calipers to cause damage.  If you would like to keep your Corvette 100% correct, then lip seal is the way to go.

However, over time, problems occur when your Corvette is not driven regularly. After a period of non-use, the lip seals relax, which allows brake fluid to leak, allowing air, moisture and other contaminants into the brake system. This process can cause the pistons and seals to become offset in the caliper bores. Once they are no longer centered, fluid leakage is inevitable.

1965-1982 Corvette O-Ring Design Calipers

The o-ring piston seal was designed to alleviate the problem of wear and relaxing tendencies of lip seals. This type of caliper is far superior in terms of sealing, especially in Corvettes that are stored and have long periods of inactivity.

However, there is reduced piston to wall (sleeve) clearance inherent with the o-ring design when installed in a floating piston caliper. The designed-in balance between the lip seal and the piston spring is lost with O-ring pistons (the purpose of the spring is to ensure gentle brake pad pressure to the rotor at all times). Therefore, we strongly recommend that o-ring calipers be installed as full car sets of 4.  Then, your Corvette will retain even, stock braking force at all four wheels.

Mid America Motorworks Corvette Caliper Suggested Maintenance

For those of you who drive your 1965-1982 Corvette once a month or less, here's an easy way to keep your calipers leak-free. Every couple of weeks, go out to your car and simply depress the brake pedal. Doing this on a regular basis will keep your brake seals from developing problems.

Prolonged inactivity could cause either style seal to leak. Also, not changing the brake fluid when recommended may bring moisture contamination, which causes grit to get in between the sleeve and the o-ring and erode away the sleeve. Replacing the brake fluid every two years is the GM recommendation.

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Corvette Brakes : Bleeding your brakes correctly

Corvette Brakes : What You Should Know - but Might Not!

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Corvette Brakes - What You Should Know - But Might Not!

Corvette Brakes - What You Should Know - But Might Not!

Before you begin your brake project, take a look at some of the options available for your Corvette. There are many product options to consider when tackling your disc brakes, including brake rotors, pads, brake hoses, and brake fluid.

This guide will help you determine what parts you will need to replace your brakes for lack of function or a needed upgrade to fit your driving style. And if you are still using your original drum brakes, we will take a quick look at what to inspect to make sure your drum brake setup is functioning like it was designed to and not suffering from wear.

Brake Hardware

Before you even begin considering what kind of brakes you want, be sure that all your brake hardware is still functioning properly. Check the condition of your caliper bolts, hose clips, noise abutment clips, backing plates, and parking brake hardware. If you have an early drum brake Corvette, check your drum brakes for broken, unattached, loose or worn springs as well as levers and pins.

Brake Pads

Semi Metallic Brake Pads:

Semi Metallic Brake Pads have been used in the automotive industry for a long time. They are made with a mixture of metal fibers in the brake pad compound. The higher quality semi metallic pads contain finer particles of metallic fibers, while pads of lesser quality will have larger, coarser metal particles imbedded into the compound.

Pros:

  • Work Great When Cold; Excellent For Short Trips & Cold Climates
  • Available In Track-Ready Formulations
  • Relatively Less expensive Than Comparable Ceramic Pads
  • Typically Easier On Rotors Than Ceramic Pads

Cons:

  • Louder Than Ceramic Pads
  • Generate More Black Dust That Can Stick to Wheels
  • Don’t Last As Long As Ceramic Pads
semi metallic brake pads

Ceramic Brake Pads

Ceramic Brake Pad technology was originally introduced on production vehicles in the 1980s. Ceramic pads are created using a blend of super-strong ceramic and copper fiber imbedded into the pad compound.

Pros:

  • Quieter Than Semi-Metallic Pads
  • Create Less Dust, Keeping Your Wheels Cleaner
  • Last Longer Than Semi-Metallic Pads

Cons:

  • Not Recommended For Racing
  • Generally More Expensive Than Comparable Metallic Pads
  • Generally Cause More Wear To Brake Rotors Than Metallic Pads
ceramic brake pads

Rotors

OEM Rotors:

As opposed to performance rotors, the OEM style rotors have a smooth pad contact surface with no grooves or holes for heat dissipation. They do; however, have a vented center between both rotor sides as well as straight, parallel fins to improve the passage of air. This ensures the metal will expand more evenly, minimizing the chance of warping. For those who are going to use their Corvette for everyday driving rather than racing, or aggressive driving, a basic OEM style rotor is just the ticket.

OEM Rotors

Slotted Rotors:

Slotted rotors look like a traditional set of rotors with slots carved into the surface of the discs. The slots actually allow the discs to expel built-up brake dust and gases that are generated every time you tap your brakes. You can continue to use traditional or original style brake pads with slotted rotors or you can match a set of high performance pads to your new high performance rotors.

Slotted Rotors

Drilled Rotors:

Unlike slotted rotors, drilled rotors do not have grooves. Instead, they have holes drilled through the surface of the rotors. These holes allow brake dust and gas to vent. Unlike the slotted rotors, the drilled rotors have holes that go through the rotor. This creates more air movement through the hole and dissipates heat even more effectively than the slots do in slotted rotors. The downside is that drilling holes weakens the strength of your rotors.

Drilled Rotors

Drilled and Slotted Rotors

Can’t decide between slotted or drilled rotors? Go with a hybrid of the two. Drilled and slotted rotors will give you the maximum amount of heat dissipation, keeping your pad and rotor temperatures down. This will keep your brake pedal firm and give you maximum stopping capabilities even under extreme braking conditions. There are a couple negatives to these rotors. The drilled and slotted rotors are the weakest in strength, but this should not be an issue if you are looking for a high performance rotor or taking your car to the race track, as you should be replacing your rotors frequently anyway.

Drilled and Slotted Rotors

Brake Hoses

Rubber Hose vs. Stainless Steel:

Rubber brake hoses (lines) are less expensive than their stainless steel counterparts. Rubber brake line installations are much more common, because the average everyday vehicle owner won’t notice the difference in braking response that comes from using rubber brake lines. Rubber brake lines are easier to inspect than the stainless steel brake hoses, since you can visually see the rubber, where as the stainless steel covers the rubber.

Upgrading to stainless steel lines does have its advantages. The rubber brake hoses are susceptible to wear and damage, while the stainless steel hoses are protected by the stainless steel braid. Stainless steel brake lines serve in many high performance braking systems because Teflon resists expansion as mentioned above, and therefore creates more direct fluid pressure.

rubber hose

A standard rubber brake line, when faced with more than 1500 PSI of pressure at the point of brake application, will flex and absorb some of the pressure from the brake fluid compression. In a stainless steel brake line, brake fluid will only flow to the path of least resistance, which usually ends up being the end of the brake line or caliper in a sealed system. This will give you a firm brake pedal feel. There is also a cosmetic advantage to stainless steel lines. If you have a show car, a set of steel lines may be the choice for you, regardless of the technical benefits.

stainless steel hose

Brake Fluid:

Most automotive professionals agree that glycol-based brake fluid, (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1) should be flushed, or changed, every 1–2 years under non-racing conditions. Periodic fluid changes will ensure reliability and safety. Once added to the braking system moisture will diffuse into the fluid through brake hoses and rubber seals and, eventually, the fluid will have to be replaced when the water content becomes too high. Most brake fluids used today are glycol-ether based, but mineral oil and silicone (DOT 5) based fluids are also available.

Silicone fluid should be used only to fill brake systems that have not been previously filled with glycol based fluid. Silicone fluid does not allow moisture to enter the system, but also does not disperse any that is already there. A system filled from dry with silicone fluid does not require the fluid to be changed at intervals, but only when the system has been disturbed for a component repair or renewal. Silicone fluid is used extensively in cold climates.

Brake Fluid

Quality standards refer to a brake fluid’s “dry” and “wet” boiling points. Wet boiling point, refers to the fluid’s boiling point after absorbing a certain amount of moisture. This is several (single digit) percent, varying from formulation to formulation. Glycol-ether (DOT 3, 4, and 5.1) brake fluids are hygroscopic or water absorbing, which means they absorb moisture from the atmosphere under normal humidity levels. Non-hygroscopic fluid, such as silicone or DOT 5 based formulations, are hydrophobic, and can maintain an acceptable boiling point over the fluid’s service life.

Although it is recommended to use a brake fluid that has a DOT rating recommended for your car, here are the quality standards that determine the DOT Rating:

DOT Rating Dry Boiling Point Wet Boiling Point
DOT 2 190 °C (374 °F) 140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) 140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) 155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F)
DOT 5.1 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F)
DOT Rating Viscosity Limit Primary Constituent
DOT 2 ? Castor oil/alcohol
DOT 3 1500 mm2/s Glycol Ether
DOT 4 1800 mm2/s Glycol Ether/Borate Ester
DOT 5 900 mm2/s Silicone
DOT 5.1 900 mm2/s Glycol Ether/Borate Ester

Drum Brakes

A drum brake is a brake that uses friction caused by a set of shoes or pads that press against a rotating drum-shaped part called a brake drum. Early brake shoes contained asbestos. When working on brake systems of older cars, care must be taken not to inhale any dust present in the brake assembly.

Brake drums were used on the rear axle of the 1953-1962 Corvette. Although there are certainly aftermarket brake kits that allow you to upgrade your stock drum brakes to a more effective disc brake kit, you may choose to maintain your original drum brakes. If you do retain your drum brakes, look for these signs to indicate it’s time for a replacement.

Drum Brakes Diagram

Shoes: The shoe lining should be evenly worn with no bald spots or thin places. They should not be worn down far enough to be close to any metal or rivets. The lining should be firmly bonded in place to the brake shoes.

Wheel Cylinder: Check to make sure they are not leaking brake fluid. Check the rubber seals, to make sure they are not missing, cracked or split. They should be good, pliable rubber.

Brake Adjusters: New brakes need to be adjusted several times as they break in. While the self-adjusters normally handle this when the car is driven in reverse and when the brakes are applied, it is a good idea to perform the initial adjustment manually: this is considered standard procedure by most professional mechanics. To do this, use a brake adjusting tool or screwdriver. With the parking brake off, turn the adjusting wheel on the inside of the backing plate until the brake tightens up all the way. Then, back off the adjustment until the wheel turns freely. Be sure to back off both brakes the same amount to equalize them.

Wheel Cylinder


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The Bloody Truth: Bleeding Corvette Brakes

The Bloody Truth: Bleeding Corvette Brakes

Your brake system is an important part of your Corvette. Proper maintenance, including bleeding the brakes from time to time, will keep your Corvette operating smoothly and keep you safe! Mid America Motorworks reviews the options available for bleeding brakes to ensure that you have the most success to keep your Corvette rolling – and stopping – for miles down the road.

Why Bleed Brakes?

As brake pads wear thinner, the distance they need to travel to engage with the rotors increases. As time passes on, each set of brake pads wears down and more brake fluid is needed to engage them. As the brake fluid levels drop, air fills the void created in the master cylinder. That air will reduce the hydraulic pressure of your brakes, causing them to feel soft. If your brake pedal is frequently at the floor, even at slow speeds or full stops, you probably have air in your brake lines.

Brake Bleeding Methods

The process of bleeding brakes is performed by forcing clean, bubble-free brake fluid through the entire system. There are a few different methods that can be used to get the job done.

2-Man Pump & Hold Method

2-Man Pump & Hold Method

Using this method, one person sits in the driver seat, pumping the brakes a few times and then holding the brake pedal down. The other person opens the brake bleeder valve to let out brake fluid and air. A clear tube is often attached to the bleeder valve and run into a container to offer a better view of the fluid and bubbles. Once the fluid drains, the bleeder valve is closed to ensure that no air re-enters the system before the brake is released. This process is repeated several times on each wheel to ensure all fluid and air have been discharged. To protect the master cylinder seals from damage by accumulated sediment or corrosion, place a block under the brake pedal to keep it from bottoming out.

1-Man Pump & Hold Method

Using this method, one person sits in the driver seat, pumping the brakes a few times and then holding the brake pedal down. The other person opens the brake bleeder valve to let out brake fluid and air. A clear tube is often attached to the bleeder valve and run into a container to offer a better view of the fluid and bubbles. Once the fluid drains, the bleeder valve is closed to ensure that no air re-enters the system before the brake is released. This process is repeated several times on each wheel to ensure all fluid and air have been discharged. To protect the master cylinder seals from damage by accumulated sediment or corrosion, place a block under the brake pedal to keep it from bottoming out.

1-Man Pump & Hold Method
Brake Bleeder Kit

Brake Bleeder Kit

A nearly fool-proof method is to use a brake bleeder kit. A kit lets you bleed your brakes without someone's assistance. Some Brake Bleeder Kits can also be used as a Vacuum/Pressure Pump, allowing you to accurately test vacuum and pressure within your entire automotive system! Check for leaks in your headlight and wiper door vacuum systems, and diagnose problems like sticking valves, broken valve springs, restricted exhaust, worn piston rings and leaking head gaskets.

The Brake Bleeder Kit is easy to assemble and use. Simply remove the wheel and rubber dust cover on the brake bleeder. Attach the 12" tube of the brake bleeder kit to the brake bleeder and loosen the bleeder valve. Use the pressure pump to draw fluid out of the brakes and into the jar.



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